The Delaware Gazette

What is Bugging You?

Wendy Wolpert

Delaware County Mas­ter Gar­dener Volunteer

Do you have scarabs in your lawn? Are they eat­ing up your gar­den? No, I haven’t been play­ing too much Halo or read­ing about ancient Egypt. Scarabs are alive and well and hit­ting our win­dow screens and porch lights on hot, sum­mer nights. You prob­a­bly know them as June bugs, Japan­ese Bee­tles, or grubs.

Many of us are famil­iar with the Japan­ese Bee­tle, Popilla japon­ica, because it has a dis­tinc­tive, metallic-green body. How­ever, there are nine species of scarab bee­tles that fre­quent Ohio. The nor­mal life cycle of these bee­tles is one year, although there are a few that have adapted to a two year cycle. This time of year, when it is hot, hot, hot is prime breed­ing and hatch­ing time — and that means white grubs. Grubs in the lawn. Grubs in the garden.

White grubs are the lar­vae of these scarab bee­tles. On first glance, they all look very much alike. But each dif­fer­ent type of bee­tle has slight dif­fer­ences in size, in feed­ing habits and in tim­ing of the life cycle. Which type of bee­tle you are deal­ing with can tell you a lot about how, and when, to seek out some sort of con­trol. You iden­tify a white grub by the raster, a pat­tern of bris­tles and hairs on its abdomen.

All these bee­tles do share some com­mon fea­tures. The adult females deposit eggs in small clus­ters buried in the ground. With ade­quate mois­ture, these eggs will swell and hatch into grubs. These grubs work their way to the sur­face and begin to eat organic mate­r­ial, espe­cially the roots of plants. Over a period of about two to three months, they will grow and develop through three dis­tinct stages, eat­ing more and more vora­ciously. By Sep­tem­ber, when the soil begins to cool, they need to have stored up enough energy to dig down in the soil and wait out the win­ter. In the spring, they come up for a good feed­ing in late April or early May, and then dig back down to go through the final change into an adult.

Adults can dec­i­mate your orna­men­tal and small fruit plant­i­ngs. These bee­tles will send scouts ahead of the main pop­u­la­tion. If you see one or two bee­tles, you can some­times remove them and pre­vent a prob­lem. When­ever pos­si­ble, avoid keep­ing bright lights on at night, or change the bulbs to a yel­low bulb to reduce its attrac­tive­ness. You will often find the dam­age is worse near light­ing fea­tures. You can also plant species of plants that are not attractive.

A few white grubs in your gar­den or lawn soil are not wor­ri­some. How­ever, in large num­bers, you may begin to see signs of drought dam­age in the lawn or gar­den caused by exces­sive feed­ing on the roots. Grubs are most destruc­tive if they are able to get to the third instar, which occurs in the late sum­mer and early autumn. Tur­f­grass infested with a large pop­u­la­tion some­times dis­plays the “car­pet” effect, where whole sec­tions are no longer rooted to the ground. Any efforts at con­trol­ling large pop­u­la­tions should be aimed at the period between when the egg is deposited and the sec­ond instar.

Mois­ture is crit­i­cal to the abil­ity of the eggs to sur­vive. So, to reduce the like­li­hood of grubs devel­op­ing, try to restrict water­ing in July and early August to the min­i­mum needed for plant health. When you water, be effi­cient and focus on water­ing at the root area of the tar­get plant. If you water your lawn, make cer­tain that you are doing so as infre­quently as pos­si­ble dur­ing this time. Most lawns will go through a slight period of dor­mancy in the heat of the sum­mer. Once the lawn has begun to brown and stop grow­ing, water­ing it will only encour­age weeds and aid the grubs in hatching.

Stud­ies have shown that traps are not very effec­tive for con­trol­ling these pop­u­la­tions. While these traps can work in an iso­lated pop­u­la­tion of a spe­cific bee­tle, in open areas with mul­ti­ple breed­ing groups there is a risk that you may attract more bee­tles into the area. Insec­ti­cides are some­times used, but the tim­ing must be exact to the pop­u­la­tion you are con­trol­ling. Remem­ber that con­trol­ling one bee­tle, like the Japan­ese bee­tle, opens up the habi­tat to other pop­u­la­tions. The North­ern Masked Chafer, Cyclo­cephala bore­alis, for exam­ple, is usu­ally seen in higher pop­u­la­tions in areas where Japan­ese bee­tle con­trols have been used.

Master Gardener Posted by on Jul 22 2011. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS Feed. Comments can be made below.

1 Comment for “What is Bugging You?”

  1. Wendy Wolpert

    For more infor­ma­tion, see:

    HYG 2510–94 for decrip­tions of raster pat­terns & adult
    HYG 2001-03 for info on Japan­ese Bee­tle con­trol
    HYG 2505–91 for info on the Nor­thetn Masked Chafer

Leave a Reply

 

Search Archive

Search by Date
Search by Category
Search with Google

Open M - F 8am to 5pm | 740-363-1161 | 40 N. Sandusky Street, Suite 202, Delaware, OH 43015

We use third-party advertising companies to serve ads when you visit our Web site. For more information click here.
Click on the following for legal information: Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions
Copyright © 2010 - 2011, Ohio Community Media